FASHION of the OLD WEST
I have been a Research Field Archeologist as well as a historical interpreter and Museum curator for well over forty years. As such I have had more than my share of so called historically accurate stitch counters that think they know history of the Old West bending my ear. I have had to listen to many of these individuals who have worked themselves into choice positions of influence. Where, unfortunately they have been influencing generation after generation with their historical interpretation. They, I have found are reluctant to listen to any form of correction or reason.
ACADEMIC CREDENTIALS
Over the years I have evaluated many museum collections and re-evaluated numerous archeological reports of other scientists. Remember: "There is no such thing as a FACT; all so called facts are just opinions or statements that are waiting to be re-evaluated by a new generation of scientists."
Any time you plan to evaluat or re-evaluat someone elses work you need to establish your curriculum vitae or your level of expertise.
Curriculum Vitae:
So here goes - I did my graduate and post-graduate work at Oklahoma State University [OSU}, Stillwater, Oklahoma. Post-graduate degree in Historical Sociology [pending]. Graduate degree in Curriculum and Educational Leadership with minors in; History, Anthropology, Sociology and Geography. Under-graduate degree from Oklahoma City University, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. major in Criminal Justice with minor in History and Anthropology. Associates degree from College of the Canyons at Valencia, California, in Police Science and History. Did my archeological field certification with the US Forest Service and completed 25 Field Survey Archeological Reports. Have writen and published numerous scientific papers. Biographical profile is published in over 45 different volumes of Who;s Who through-out the wolrd. Biogrpahical recognition world wide as one of the top 100 archeologists in the world.
While working on the above mentioned degrees, I have spent many long hours researching and documenting the history of the Old West. With a focus on the fashion of the pre-1840's through the Civil War, Reconstruction and on into the Victorian era to the turn of the century. I focus on the middle 1880's.
To focus on a narrow timeline, you must consider that it takes number of years to develop an idea or fashion style.
This time-line spans about 65 plus years and it has saw a very rapid and sometimes strange advance in clothing design. With the many varied and diverse external influences brought to us by the many emigrant cultures that we have seen swarm to the early colonial shores. The most prolific were the Scotch-Irish, a cultural group that were oppressed by virtually everyone they came in contact with. Not ones to be discouraged, they pulled up their boot-straps and forged ahead. They were so successful in their endeavors as to be represented in virtually every walk of life, actors, senators, lawyers, etc.. These were the people who rapidly brought change to the fashion of the period. War is the one external influence that has historically caused the most rapid change in all facets of society.
I have photographed fashion as I find it in museums and brought it to my web pages to clarify and inform those who seek clarification of fashion. In support of this effort, consider the following.
Steam Boat Arabia
Academic Review of the Wreck of the Steam Boat Arabia
That being said; I am going to examine the amateur [excavation ?] of the Side-wheel steam boat Arabia that sank in the Missouri River, September 1856.
Boat Specification: The Arabia was built in Brownsville, PA in 1853 by the Pringle Boatyards. A 171 foot medium size, Side-paddle wheel steam boat, 222 ton load capacity. By 1855 it was in service on the Missouri River. After leaving the present town of Kansas City, Missouri in route to its next location, it unfortunately never made it. She went down in about 15 feet of water with all cargo, but with no loss of life.
In a certian sense we need to thank these amateur treasure hunters [the Hawley family] in that they recovered a portion of the about 220 tons of cargo that had been lost. The photos below show the incredable state of preservation after about 130 years of being buried under the soil of a Kansas corn field. The main thing I find fault with is that the excavation was not conducted under the umbrela of academic or scientific control. Therefor much important information was lost.
The enclosed photos of the recovered resource material tend to establish that many of our learned conceptions have been over turned.
the treasure hunters recovered about 5,000 boots and shoes from the wreck. Look closely at the photo, you will notice numerous styles of boots and shoes. Numerous pairs of stitched boots.
This is one of my favorite photos. Rubber soled brogans [1856], many Civil War purists argue against rubbered soled brogans during the Civil War. Consider this: today the military let out bids for military clothing. The Civil War was no different. The lowest bidder made the brogans with leather soles which was cheaper than rubber soles, later added hob nails, then mid way through the war the Union started making brogans with rubber soles they lasted longer.
Notice the bib pattern on the shirt front. Back east the Fireman of municipal fire depts. wore a shirt with a bib front.